Since trains can’t ride on the surface of water (too sad), ferry seems to be an optimal choice when you need to move between Estonian and Swedish capitals. The company that operates on this route is Tallink, and following story is about traveling by one of its ships.
Coins, registration machines and route map
The ferry to Stockholm departs from Terminal D of the Tallinn Passenger Port. It is located rather close to the historical center, in half an hour of walking from, for example, famous Kiek in de Kök tower.
The first service facility that meets a traveler inside the terminal is a luggage storage, located right near the entrance. This placement is perfectly convenient, especially when your belongings are heavy or numerous. Lockers of different sizes and prices accept only coins, but you can easily (not always, though, only from 8:30 to 19:00) convert your paper into a metal — with the help of a money-changing operator.
In order to get to the ferry I use an escalator and move up to the next level of the building — the one which is mostly known in European countries as the first floor. There I find another useful feature — self-registration machines with user-friendly interface in English. The check-in process is quick, and I get a boarding pass within seconds.
Then, among with fellow voyagers, I guide my steps through a couple of halls and the long corridor which ends with a boarding bridge. Making it to a ferry takes a few minutes, and — for the occasions when someone needs a rest on the way — there are a fair number of seats.
Through the glass walls of the passenger walkway I can see the ferry in all its hugeness. This is 10-years old, 30-meters high Baltic Queen of the Tallink fleet. It has 12 decks and almost a thousand cabins. And I am about to get on its board.
The weather is sunny and more or less warm. The open deck of the ship is crowded. People take selfies, enjoy the fresh air, cast farewell looks at the nice city of Tallinn and filming potentially likable videos for their social networks. It’s 18:00, and the anchor is raised right on schedule.
The trip to the capital of Sweden lasts a little over 16 hours. The ferry goes westward over the Baltic Sea, making one short intermediate stop in Mariehamn (ferries from Turku and Helsinki also move via this port). Good news: an opportunity to experience the route is far from rare and comes every day.
Compare all Baltic Sea ferries
Starting in the early evening and ending in the morning, this cruise offers a wide variety of possibilities. There is enough time to get the most from the view during the daylight hours and to enjoy both nightlife and good sleep while it’s dark outside.
Dragonflies, double bed and synth-pop
Baltic Queen has lots of stairs, which is a common quality among all big ferries. The design of those spaces involves a large number of mirrors and shiny, reflective metal elements — and this, I guess, is the signature style of Tallink (their ferry named Star confirms this theory).
But something is unusual and quite peculiar here. I mean plentiful images of dragonflies — simplified yet clearly recognizable. They are everywhere, on each wall of every stairwell. Trying to figure out what stands behind this decorative choice, I tend to favor the idea of speed and elegance. Dragonflies are famous for being fast and good with maneuvering — as well as modern ships.
I may be wrong in my assumptions about the stylized insects, but one thing I know for sure: my cabin is on the deck 8. The system of directional signs inside the ferry is impeccable, and I know where exactly to go at every single moment.
I go to the deck of a proper number, make one turn and take a few steps on a corridor carpet. The doors of Baltic Queen look neat — with deep and cool tone of green and projected horizontal lines. Should I open one of those? Sure thing!
I enter the cabin. It represents the class called A Premium — which is exactly in the middle of the range of service levels. It is not as spacious as, for example, Deluxe class cabin, but it has two great features that make a difference in comparison to, let’s say, B Class. First of them is a big round window. The second one is the wide, full-size double bed.
Apart from that, this place has many other means of comfort and functionality. Two-sectioned nightstands and lamps are located on both sides of the bed. The clothes storage near the door is commodious and equipped with hangers. There are also two sockets by the mirror, a soft stool, a trash bin and a climate control.
The cabin has its own toilet and a shower. The room containing these facilities is tiny, but really comfortable. I especially like the shape of the washbowl which, together with two mirrors, utilizes the corner in an effective and eye-catching manner.
Compare the different cabin types
Quite unexpectedly, I’ve got a hunch that some of the people in Tallink who were in charge of making the “Do not disturb” sign are fans of the cult synth-pop band Depeche Mode. Here is how the sign looks:
Probably, I dig too deep, but the award-winning, best-selling and all-that-stuff song entitled “Enjoy the Silence” comes to mind immediately. I guess, many of the readers have no idea what I am talking about, so let’s just forget about this. Anyway, I reserve the silence-enjoying for the night, and go out to do some around-looking.
I leave the cozy cabin and walk through the corridors and halls of the ferry. There are a lot of people, and most of them prefer to stay inside at the moment. I decide to visit the open deck one more time — while the daylight is still in power.
Pixel art, food diversity and setting sun
Moving outdoors is a good idea. I am rewarded with a curious finding. It is a big “No Smoking” pictogram on the surface of the deck which looks like a real-life adaptation of pixel art. What is even more interesting, other images of the same purpose on the ferry are regular-looking and round-shaped — so this one seems to be unique.
The seascape is already in its most meditative state: nothing in excess, just two forces of nature and the horizon in between. If there was a competition of soothing views, this one would be a strong candidate for the grand prix. Of note, various objects of a ferry — lifeboats, safety rings, floodlights and ropes — gracefully play supporting roles and add a certain charm to the whole picture.
Strolling back and forth works up an appetite, even when the walking area is relatively small. In light of this, my next place of interest seems to be obvious, especially since the dinner time comes. I go to the establishment which is called Grande Buffet.
The buffet is located at the bow of the ship. Its wide windows offer a great view. Its cooks provide a long and diverse list of scrumptious dishes (and the drinks, of course). There are so many of everything that even if there was a week to taste all the dishes, I wouldn’t be able to manage this.
Actually, the festival of gastronomical opulence at the buffet lasts for about three hours. So, the possibility of missing it is real. However, even if this unfortunate slip happened to some passengers, Baltic Queen has a plan B for such situation. There is a great deal of restaurants and cafes with various cuisines and menu items — from American steak to Russian borsch.
For those who prefer the mood and ambience of bars, there are spots too. Some of them even deliver live music in addition to shots and long drinks. I find two options of the latter kind: quiet lounging with a glass of wine at a piano bar and having a draught beer in the company of an upbeat guitar player.
Meanwhile, the sun starts its routine of disappearing over the skyline. This daily show still looks great and attracts attention over and over again, even in our age of overabundant media content and exuberant entertainment. And this is eminently charming.
Have you noticed that sunset usually creates a kind of museful mood? In my opinion, the setting sun is the best setting for thoughts about something sublime, elusive and enigmatic. For instance, about free Wi-Fi — which is a kind of miracle, at least for an ordinary guy like me. But, jokes aside, Wi-Fi is available here, and it’s free. Right in the middle of the sea, mind you!
The air gets cooler. The day is obviously over. But joyful life on the ferry is in full swing as yet.
Cylinder hat, ferry on TV and archipelagos
The main event of the night takes place in a two-storey venue with a fancy name — the Starlight Palace. Two personable men in white shirts with shoulder straps are on the stage. They hold microphones and manipulate numbered cube-shaped boxes.
This happening is a lottery. I do not try to understand the mechanics of this, but I do notice two things. First, the process involves a cylinder hat. Second, the crowd apparently enjoys this. The latter is not surprising — there are prizes, and nothing beats the free stuff.
While some passengers trying their luck in a buzzing hall, others — and I am among them — prefer quieter places. Indeed, some fun actions do not demand much in terms of organizing. We can entertain ourselves anytime with swapping, chatting and goofing around. Why not?
Anyway, many of the time-spending activities are not available at this hour. Fashion stores and gift shops are already closed. A supermarket is also on a break. And the overall activity on the ferry starts to fade out, as it gets late.
I go back to my cabin and turn on a TV (oh, those guilty pleasures!). Apart from Scandinavian television, there is a special channel dedicated to the ship. It demonstrates two visuals in rotation: the view from the bow (in real-time, as far as I understand) and a map showing where exactly Baltic Queen is located at the moment.
As fascinating as it looks, I need to have some rest. That is why I swap TV for a night light. Here is the last picture that I see before falling asleep:
Cut: it’s morning already. Sleeping on a big cushy bed is a pleasure itself, but it’s even better when there is a window right behind it. I just open my eyes — and see the pleasant image of slowly moving clouds. What a nice beginning of the new day!
Moreover, morning continues in an even nicer manner. The ferry approaches Stockholm, and this part of the route is deservedly considered as one of the most dazzling locations for any sea cruise. The views are spectacular and unique, and there is no wonder why everybody loves those tiny islands and archipelagos.
Sadly enough, at some point we pass through all that beauty. But the good thing is that we arrive in the city which is also magnificent. And, speaking of the good, this means that this long text is almost over. Thank you for the patience, dear readers!
Find cheap hotels in Stockholm
Passengers leave Baltic Queen via yet another long walkway, and I follow the example. We are at the final point of the trip — Värtaterminalen, a modern ferry terminal built in 2016.
Its building has a distinctive design, with a green rooftop, broad minimalistic halls and sophisticatedly designed levels. Unfortunately, I have no time to explore it properly, so I just give the place a few glances.
Then, I get on Flygbussarna — a bus to the center of the city. The ticket is 60 SEK (a little less than 6 Euro). The duration of the ride is just 10 minutes. That’s it.
Final words, subjective rating and useful links
To sum up, in my personal, subjective rating this trip gets five stars out of five. And there are some honorable mentions: the buffet, the double bed of an A Premium cabin, and the outside view at the last part of the trip.
Enough said, and I support my recommendations with a number of links related to the topic: Directferries (easy and secure booking), Tallink, train tickets for Sweden, cheap hotels in Stockholm and cheap hotels in Tallinn. See you again on the pages of this blog, and let all your trips have the 5-star rating!
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